17 September – Paris by bike and boat

The first activity that I booked before we left home was also the top rated ‘Thing to do” in Paris on Tripadvisor.com. So that morning, having figured out how to use the Paris Metro, we headed for Notre Dame Cathedral. Outside the cathedral, under the statue of Charlemagne on his horse, we were to meet the Bike About Tour. We were 20 mins early, so we wandered through Notre Dame Cathedral, which was already full of tourists. It really is a huge building, and must have been mind blowing for the average 15^th century peasant.

Back outside, we met the bloke from Amsterdam who, together with a Kiwi bloke, had started the business. He and Amber (our guide for the day) led us to the carpark under the Hotel Deville that they called The Bat Cave and where they stored their bikes. We selected our bikes and had a quick lap around the carpark to test them out. They were the small wheeled, fold up type, with very responsive steering. Each had a name. Mine was Canard, “Duck”, Charlotte’s was “Edith Piaf”.

Then we were off. Amber led us through backstreets and cycle paths (they are separated from the road by an extra curb) and around the city. We saw the oldest shopping arcade in Paris (and bought quiches and an AMAZING citron tart for lunch), we found boutique chocolatiers, a stray cannonball from the revolution, the last remaining piece of the original Paris city wall, some 20 million Euro apartments, the secret backdoor entry to The Louvre that avoids all the lines (all 4-5hrs of queuing) and got the lowdown on where to eat and drink and where to go shopping. It was great fun! We even spotted a few works by the anonymous street artist, Space Invader. It was great fun, and a really good way to get your bearings in a new city.

The tour finished back in the bat cave, where we grabbed some cheap tickets for a cruise along the Seine that evening.  In the mean time, we wandered around to the back of Notre Dame to see the architecture and the gargoyles and visited Saint Chappelle. Saint Chappelle was built by one of the French kings to store the true crown of thorns (or at least, one of the “true” crowns of thorns) which he brought back from the crusades. We wandered into the lower chambers and thought, “well, this is nice, but what is all the hype about?” You see, Rick Steves rates it as the best example of gothic architecture in France. We were about to leave when Charlotte spotted the stairs up, hidden in the corner. Upstairs was breath taking. I was actually stopped in my tracks. There is a very high vaulted ceiling, which doesn’t seem to be sufficiently supported because surrounding the room are enormous stained glass windows. Words don’t do it justice, and to be honest, neither did any of the photos that we took. Of the two, Saint Chappelle is much better than Notre Dame. They are either end of the island in the river.

The cruise was a pretty relaxing way to spend the evening, especially considering that it had started to rain. We were inside, kicking back and watching the bridges and landmarks go by. The Eiffel Tower was lit up and occasionally shimmered with strobe lights.

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I love the Paris Metro gothic style. I keep expecting Jack Skellington (Nightmare Before Christmas) to saunter out, or perhaps a Forsaken.

Coffee in Paris. Not so bad huh?

Think again… Once the cappuccino froth was gone, it was a long black. Seriously, Paris, are you taking the piss/?

Notre Dame before the tourists arrive. Note that no tourists or tour buses appear to venture out before 10am. Make the most of it.

Paris by bike. The little fold up bikes are surprisingly nimble.

Nice legs, amiright?

In the background, behind the ornate street lamp, is a revolution era cannonball lodged in the wall of the former bishop’s residence. He was dragged out and guillotined, I believe.

Zoomed out. Can you spot the cannonball?

Livin’ the dream. To the right, behind the fence is the last standing section of the Paris city wall.

The last standing section of the Paris city wall. Not encased in glass. Not in a museum. Just part of the local school’s footy (and acting as the back wall of someone’s house).

In a private garden behind a house in Place Des Vosges. Love the mole statue.

Place Des Vosges. Victor Hugo owned one of these. Last year, one sold for 20m euros. Overrated.

Space invader!

Bike!

Notre Dame from behind. Cheeky flying buttresses!

I’m not sure why tourists give a peace sign in photos. We didn’t want to be left out, though.

One of Paris’s oldest shopping arcades. Features a killer chocolate shop.

Hey! Put that sign down!

Om nom nom nom!

Romantic Paris

Space Invader!

The Louvre from a bridge on the Seine. Amber, our lovely tour guide, is sitting on the railing to the right.

The Louvre. Find the secret entrance, and you won’t have to join that queue.

Cycling through the Louvre.

Amber, I think we’re still in The Louvre.

The Louvre.

Space Invader!

Space Invader!

Gallery of modern art. It’s meant to be inside out like that.

Street art.

Notre Dame gargoyles

Ground level in Saint Chappelle

Detail of the upstairs stained glass in Saint Chappelle

Upstairs in Saint Chappelle

Upstairs, Saint Chappelle

Detail on the Saint Chappelle balcony entrance showing Noah’s ark. This was Charlie’s favourite.

Nuddies! This was my favourite.

Liberte. Egalite. Fraternite.

Outside Notre Dame. He’ll never get *ahead* in life.

Creepy gargoyles, Notre Dame

Gargoyles, Notre Dame

Gargoyles, Notre Dame. This guy seems uncomfortable.

Notre Dame. The central spire was a later addition. The architect included bronze statues of the apostles and one of himself. He is at the top, shielding his eyes (against the sight of his own brilliance, one presumes).

The love bridge. Lock a padlock onto the bridge and throw the key into the river to seal your eternal love and poison the aquatic life. Romantic. I won’t even mention the combination locks…

A pot of Normandy cider with our crepes.

Crepes at Ty Breiz. Yum!

Eiffel Tower from the Seine cruise.

No wonder they drive so badly.